Alexander McQueen

Who Was Alexander McQueen?

Alexander McQueen, an iconic British fashion designer, rose to prominence as the head designer of Givenchy, a fashion line owned by Louis Vuitton, and later launched his own renowned menswear collection in 2004. His innovative designs earned him widespread recognition, including four British Fashion Designer of the Year awards by the British Fashion Council. Additionally, McQueen was appointed Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) for his contributions to fashion. Tragically, McQueen’s life came to a premature end in 2010 when he committed suicide, following the death of his beloved mother.

Early Years

Born Lee Alexander McQueen on March 17, 1969, in London’s working-class Lewisham district, McQueen grew up in a humble environment. His father, Ronald, was a cab driver, while his mother, Joyce, taught social science. Despite their modest means, the couple supported McQueen and his five siblings. McQueen, who was known by the name “Lee” among friends, was aware of his homosexuality from an early age, and endured bullying because of it. At 16, he left school and began working on Savile Row, a prestigious street in London’s Mayfair district known for bespoke men’s tailoring. There, he honed his skills with top tailoring houses like Anderson & Sheppard and Gieves & Hawkes, laying the groundwork for his future career in fashion.

Finding His Niche

McQueen’s journey continued as he transitioned from traditional tailoring to theatrical costume design, working with Angels and Bermans. This period heavily influenced the dramatic and boundary-pushing designs that would define his later work. A brief stint in Milan followed, where he served as a design assistant to Italian fashion designer Romeo Gigli, further expanding his design sensibilities.

Upon returning to London, McQueen pursued formal education in fashion by enrolling at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. He graduated with a master’s degree in fashion design in 1992, with his final collection, inspired by Jack the Ripper, being entirely bought by influential stylist Isabella Blow. Blow’s advocacy would play a key role in propelling McQueen’s career forward, and she became a lifelong friend and muse.

Givenchy Head Designer

McQueen quickly made a name for himself after launching his own fashion line, with his “bumster” pants—infamously low-cut trousers—gaining significant attention. Just four years out of design school, McQueen was appointed Chief Designer of Givenchy in 1996. Although the role was prestigious, McQueen had mixed feelings about it. His time at Givenchy (1996–2001) was creatively challenging, as he felt restricted by the house’s traditional style and was unable to fully implement his vision. Nonetheless, he continued to push boundaries, famously including a model with amputations walking the runway on carved wooden legs.

Reflecting on his time at Givenchy, McQueen later admitted that he felt creatively stifled and treated the position as merely a financial opportunity. He stated, “I treated Givenchy badly. It was just money to me…The only way it would have worked would have been if they had allowed me to change the whole concept of the house, to give it a new identity, and they never wanted me to do that.” Despite these challenges, McQueen won the prestigious British Designer of the Year award three times during his tenure at Givenchy (1996, 1997, and 2001), a testament to his extraordinary talent and vision.

Booming Business

In 2000, Gucci acquired a 51 percent stake in Alexander McQueen’s private company, providing the financial support needed for McQueen to expand his business. Shortly after, McQueen departed from his role at Givenchy. By 2003, his exceptional talent was recognized globally when he was named International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and awarded the title of Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II. Additionally, he earned another British Designer of the Year award. McQueen’s success continued to flourish as he opened flagship stores in key fashion capitals such as New York, Milan, London, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles.

With Gucci’s investment backing him, McQueen reached new heights in his career. Known for the creative passion and theatricality of his fashion shows, he continued to push boundaries after his departure from Givenchy. A notable moment came during the presentation of his Fall/Winter 2006 collection, where a hologram of model Kate Moss floated hauntingly across the runway, leaving a lasting impression on the fashion world.

Despite his fame, McQueen remained unapologetically authentic, embracing his non-traditional looks and working-class roots. One acquaintance described their first meeting with McQueen, recalling his casual attire: a lumberjack shirt and disheveled jeans, far from the polished image typically associated with high fashion designers. Another friend humorously noted that McQueen’s teeth “looked like Stonehenge.” McQueen took pride in shattering the conventional image of success in the fashion industry, embracing his individuality.

Personal Struggles and Tragic Death

McQueen’s life took a dark turn in 2007 with the suicide of his close friend and mentor, Isabella Blow. The loss deeply affected him, and he dedicated his 2008 Spring/Summer collection to her, later reflecting that her death “was the most valuable thing I learnt in fashion.” Tragedy struck again in February 2010, when McQueen’s mother passed away. Overcome with grief, McQueen was found dead in his London apartment on February 11, 2010, just one day before his mother’s funeral. His death was ruled a suicide.

Legacy

Alexander McQueen’s journey from a working-class dropout to an internationally renowned designer is a story of unparalleled talent and innovation. His daring designs and unforgettable shows left an indelible mark on the fashion world, a legacy that continues to thrive. After his death, longtime collaborator Sarah Burton took over as the creative director of the Alexander McQueen brand, which remains a major force in the fashion industry. In 2011, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City honored McQueen’s contributions to fashion with a retrospective exhibition, celebrating his extraordinary impact.

In 2018, McQueen’s life and career became the subject of the critically acclaimed documentary McQueen, directed by Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui. The film featured interviews with McQueen’s family, friends, and colleagues, alongside rare archival footage that offered a glimpse into the designer’s inner turmoil and the tragic end to his remarkable life.