Table of Contents
Who Is Jean-Paul Gaultier?
Jean-Paul Gaultier, a prominent figure in the fashion industry, began his career at age 18 when he joined the house of Pierre Cardin, subsequently working with Jacques Esterel and Patou. His first collection debuted in 1976, but he officially launched his own design house in 1982. Renowned for challenging conventional views of fashion, Gaultier gained international fame after collaborating with Madonna in 1990, creating her iconic conical bras. In 2003, he became the head designer at Hermès, a position he held until 2011. Gaultier further expanded his creative repertoire when he was appointed as the creative director for Diet Coke in 2012.
Early Years
Born as the only child of a bookkeeper and a cashier, Gaultier developed a passion for fashion early on. Spending significant time with his maternal grandmother, he drew inspiration from her wardrobe, particularly fascinated by her corsets. At the age of 13, he designed clothes for both his grandmother and mother, while also avidly following fashion magazines and emerging designers. His talent led him to send sketches to various Parisian designers, ultimately securing a position with Pierre Cardin on his eighteenth birthday, marking the beginning of his formal design training.
Gaultier’s early career included roles as an assistant to Cardin in 1970, followed by a stint at Jean Patou the following year. During this time, he was influenced by the work of Yves Saint Laurent and later returned to Cardin before venturing to the Philippines as a designer.
Rising Fashion Star
In 1976, Gaultier established his own fashion label and presented his first runway show in Paris, with support from his partner, Francis Menuge. Financial backing from Kashiyama, a Japanese clothing company, further solidified his brand’s foundation. Gaultier quickly earned a reputation as the “bad boy” of fashion, known for challenging gender norms and drawing inspiration from street and punk cultures. One notable creation included a bold juxtaposition of a tough leather jacket with a crinoline skirt and sneakers. He prominently featured undergarments in his designs, introducing corset dresses in 1983 and men’s skirts two years later, pushing the boundaries of gender expression. His runway shows were characterized by extravagant spectacles, and he became known for his signature kilt and Breton-striped sweater.
International Icon
The year 1990 brought both personal and professional challenges for Gaultier, as he lost his partner, Francis Menuge, to AIDS. Nevertheless, he persevered, creating one of his most recognizable designs that same year as the costume designer for Madonna’s Blond Ambition Tour. The performance featured Madonna in a cone-shaped bra under a men’s style suit, garnering immense attention and cementing Gaultier’s status in the fashion world.
Following this success, Gaultier launched his first perfume and hosted the television show Eurotrash. He showcased his creativity by designing costumes for notable films such as The City of Lost Children and The Fifth Element. In 1997, he introduced his first couture line, further establishing his presence in high fashion.
Recent Years
While Gaultier may no longer be the rebellious youth of his early career, he remains an innovative and creative force in the fashion industry. In 1999, he partnered with Hermès, selling a 35 percent stake in his business, which eventually increased to 45 percent. During this collaboration, Gaultier served as the artistic director of Hermès’ women’s wear line while continuing to design his own collections.
Gaultier has since expanded his brand, introducing various new fragrances and launching a children’s clothing line. His designs have attracted a roster of celebrity clientele, including Naomi Watts, Marion Cotillard, and Nicole Kidman, the latter of whom wore a Gaultier dress while accepting the Best Actress award at the 2003 Academy Awards. Cotillard also donned his creations for her Oscar win in 2008. Continuing to contribute to stage and film, Gaultier designed costumes for Kylie Minogue’s X Tour in 2008, as well as for Pedro Almodóvar’s films Bad Education (2004) and The Skin I Live In (2011).
In 2011, Gaultier concluded his relationship with Hermès, and Puig, a Spanish perfume and fashion company, acquired a 60 percent stake in his brand. Expressing enthusiasm about the sale, he remarked, “They are buying Gaultier for Gaultier, not to turn it into something else.”